Taconic Distillery Single Malt Whiskey

Taconic Distillery has been my favorite New York distillery for a while now, and with good reason.

They put out damn good bourbon and rye with grain from local farmers (wherever possible) and in a fairly traditional way - 53 gallon barrels, around 4 years for their core products, aging in a shipping container (ok, maybe that part isn’t traditional). Their bourbons are rich and vanilla-forward without being close to too sweet, and their ryes bring back memories of fatty, herbaceous chicken soup.

For their entire history, their production has focused on these two strains: bourbon, which was experimented on with a mizunara finish among others, and the rye. Keep it simple, do it right, offer the core version at a popular proof as well as a cask strength version for us proof hounds.

Then this bottle popped up on my Instagram.

An American Single Malt? From Taconic? You know I had to get one and try it.

According to the bottle, this single malt is at least two years old. I’d venture a guess that it’s closer to three, but I’ll get back to you.

On a fresh crack, this immediately suggests a malt variety used for beer, likely pilsner. The nose brings wonderful notes of toasted grains, some roasted just a little too long, with a cigar shop finish. What makes me think of the beer is that the beer flavor is so definitive (and, to be clear, without fermentation funk - this does not taste of wet grain or young, immature grain).

The only other products I get that nose on are ones that have a drinkable distiller’s beer. If you go on a distillery tour, a few will allow you to taste their mash to show the acidity, the sweetness of the grains, or the consistency - think of a multigrain oatmeal that’s more liquid than grain. Tasting that mash - the distiller’s beer - gives a good indication of what the distillery is focusing on in terms of grain and flavor profile. Few of them, however, would consider it “drinkable”.

The exceptions are notable: Westward Whiskey, for example, makes a distiller’s beer that just needs hops to make it a great Pacific-Northwest IPA. In Westward’s whiskey, you can taste that beer’s quality and the barley’s clarity throughout the profile.

I’m curious what barley strain was used for Taconic’s Single Malt. The product is quite spicy, especially at 86 proof. I like pepperiness and a good proof kick, but I suspect some bourbon drinkers might be caught off guard by the piquancy (then again, if you’re a rye drinker, you’ll probably love this off the bat!) The malt is well-roasted, on the cusp of catching without getting there, and that roasted complexity comes through in the final product.

I don’t think this has reached its full potential just yet, but it’s close and clearly on the right path. Another year, maybe year and a half at most will probably round out those extra guaiacols (think black pepper) and clove spices, transforming them from tongue-punches to those delightful baking spices familiar to American whiskey drinkers.

All that said, I will happily finish this bottle and share it - after all, American Single Malt is about to go into its own golden age, and I’m thrilled that my favorite distillery will be part of the journey.

Thank you to Taconic Distillery for providing this bottle for review purposes without restriction.

Taconic Distillery Single Malt Whiskey: Specs

Classification: American Single Malt Whiskey

Origin: Taconic Distillery

Mashbill: 100% Malted Barley

Proof: 86 (43% ABV)

Age: 2+ Years

Location: Stanfordville, New York

Taconic Distillery Single Malt Whiskey Price: $52

No Official Website (Yet)

Taconic Distillery Single Malt Whiskey Review: Tasting Notes

Eye: Golden apple juice. Medium sloughing rims, syrupy teardrops.

Nose: Acidic, bright and beer-forward nose. Smells like it was made from a drinkable, ale- or pilsner-style beer. Slightly burnt grain, like the barley was roasted low and slow. Walking into a cigar shop where they’re rolling them in front of you.

Palate: Spicy malt, almost like a malted rye. Tons of pepper and oak creaminess. Malted barley, the spiciness remaining throughout the entire pour. It’s distinct enough to make me wonder if this is a particular strain with which I’m unfamiliar. Dried oranges studded with cloves. Mouthfeel is silky, the pepper hitting all corners evenly. Drying, a slight fruitiness, roasted coffee flavors.

Finish: Short side of medium, the pepper spice finally dying down a bit (but by no means disappearing). The malt is well-roasted and the nuttiness emerges towards the end. Cigar casings and a light smoke.

Overall: Spicy far above its proof point. Has me asking about the strain and more information about the style. Might take a few tastes to understand and mellow that pepper, but it’s worth the wait.

Final Rating: 6.2

10 | Insurpassable | Nothing Else Comes Close

9 | Incredible | Extraordinary

8 | Excellent | Exceptional

7 | Great | Well above average

6 | Very Good | Better than average

5 | Good | Good, solid, ordinary

4 | Has promise but needs work

1-3 | Let’s have a conversation

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